In Conversation with Scottish Mill Halley Stevensons

Where Tradition Meets Innovation

Kestin has been working with Jim at Halley Stevensons for over 15 years — a relationship built on a shared desire to push fabric innovation forward from Scotland. What began as a local supplier connection has evolved into an ongoing collaboration, grounded in mutual respect, curiosity, and a commitment to making things properly.

You and Kestin have worked together for over two decades now — how did that relationship first begin, and how has it evolved over time?

We started working together through a local supplier and customer relationship, but that has grown into a friendship beyond business. We share the same passion for textiles, which has been at the core of the relationship throughout.

Halley Stevensons has such a strong heritage in Scottish textile manufacturing. How do you balance that legacy with the need to continually innovate?

We are very proud of our textile heritage and the products we make here in Dundee. Some of our fabrics have been made in the same way for decades, but innovation is in our blood. Heritage and innovation naturally complement each other from a manufacturing perspective.

This plant-based water-repellent treatment is one of your first of its kind — what sparked the move towards this type of innovation?

For a long time, the industry relied heavily on PFAS chemistry due to its effectiveness in repelling water. As that’s been phased out, alternative approaches have emerged, but most still rely on petroleum-derived inputs. What sets this fabric apart is that the DWR is a 100% bio-carbon alternative, derived entirely from traceable plant sources. It delivers comparable water-repellent performance, but with a fundamentally different origin. We’ve also introduced a back-coating derived from renewable feed stocks to improve durability and longevity. Together, this ensures lasting performance without compromising environmental ambition.

From a technical perspective, what makes this fabric different from more traditional water-repellent finishes?

Traditional alternatives typically work by increasing the contact angle of water on the fabric surface, but are still largely petroleum-based. Here, the key difference is the chemistry — the performance remains, but the inputs are entirely bio-based and traceable.

KESTIN has often worked closely with the mill on more experimental developments. What has that collaborative process looked like from your side? 

Developments can be initiated by either of us — whether that’s a new fabric finish we’re exploring, or an idea for a specific garment from Kestin. It’s the collaborative thinking that’s key. Sharing knowledge, experience and energy to create something new is at the heart of how we work together.

The Morningside Mac fabric feels like a step forward in terms of finish and sustainability. Can you talk us through how this particular development came about?

Using almost exclusively cotton as our base, we wanted to pair performance with something equally natural and sustainable. At the time, there was no suitable solution available in the market, so the answer was collaboration. This kind of innovation doesn’t happen in isolation — it required working with partners at the forefront of bio-based chemistry to develop something genuinely new.

How does the environment here in Scotland — and the mill’s location — influence the way you think about fabric and function?

The East coast of Scotland has played a major role in the development of waterproof textiles— it’s the home of waxed cotton. The climate here naturally pushes us to think about protection from the elements. It also gives us plenty of opportunity for real-world testing.

Looking back over your work with Kestin, are there any standout projects or developments that feel particularly significant?

We’re excited to have played a part in bringing the Morningside Mac to life. It’s a development that has taken many years to perfect. Natural waxes are challenging from a performance perspective, and there have been many iterations to reach this point.

What excites you most about where fabric innovation is heading, both at Halley Stevensons and more broadly?

Innovation is central to what we do. We enjoy both the challenge and the process. In recent years, we’ve worked closely with universities and start-ups who share a similar mindset. As the industry moves away from PFAS chemistry, we’re excited to continue developing natural alternatives that deliver comparable performance.